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What’s it like eating at Sukiyabashi Jiro: Where “Jiro Dreams of Sushi” was filmed?
Last year I was able to take an incredible trip around the world. After an wonderful safari in South Africa, Dave (my best bud) and I said farewell to my folks and headed east to our final stop, Tokyo. We used points to stay at the Ritz ( I loved the to-toilets) and I had seen the Netflix documentary “Jiro Dreams of Sushi” in 2014 and told myself, ” YOU WILL GO THERE.” The doc features Tokyo restaurant, Sukiyabashi Jiro: the world’s first 3 michelin star sushi restaurant, and it’s owner Jiro Ono. It was quite a moment on the couch at midnight, lemme tell you. I couldn’t really believe we were going to do it!
Reservations can be made 30 days in advance. Sukiyabashi Jiro take calls on the 1st, in Japanese, and usually books the whole month within 24 hours. We landed reservations at the Roppongi Location.
ARE YOU SERIOUS?!? WE WERE ECSTATIC! We were very fortunate to get a reservation at the Roppongi location ( made by the Ritz Carlton Tokyo – they said it was the first they’ve been able to make). There are two locations that are mirror images of one another. The first, and original, is located in a subway station in Ginza. The second, where we were going, is located in a shopping complex in Roppongi. So what’s it like eating at Sukiyabashi Jiro: Where “Jiro Dreams of Sushi” was filmed?
The exterior is simple and artful.
We ate at the sushi bar. Only 8 seats. Only 7 were filled. We were the only foreigners.
They have rules about photos. Take pics of the food and them, but not of the other guests. I like that rule.
The meal is quick. We started with some tea before moving to the bar and served Edamame.
There is no ordering here. You will get the Omakase ( in english: I’ll leave it to you.”) Takashi is the head chef at the Roppongi location which was given 2 Michelin stars, but both restaurants serve the same food. It is decided what you will have, the order, and how you will eat it. They have designed it to perfection. I loved it and learned A LOT.
Then we got into the good stuff. I believe this is squid.
There isn’t much English spoken at all. In fact, Takashi, didn’t speak to us much at all in English, but one of his sous chefs did. It was very educational. I learned that when eating nigiri ( fish placed on top of rice) that you should never dip in the soy sauce. I learned that one the hard way. I dipped. Then with grace and respect I was stopped and told never to do that again. Instead, I was to take the ginger and paint the fish with the soy sauce. I’ve done it that way ever since. Very interesting.
My favorite…3 types of Tuna. From lean to fatty.
People talk about Sukiyabashi Jiro’s rice. And yes…it’s incredible. I’m not a food expert so I don’t know how to describe it other that it has a body, texture, and weight that I’ve never experienced with rice before. It also had a slight tang, akin to vinegar taste to it. It provided great, subtle depth to each bite.
Some of the more interesting dishes
The herring that you see below isn’t to be dipped in soy sauce. You are told which pieces can be dipped and which can not. The food has been prepared and designed to perfection and they want you to experience it how they intended.
Clam – which was sweet but a little chewy for my taste.
Sea Urchin..which I had never had. Not sure I will order again. VERY CREAMY.
Watching these guys work is a true pleasure. You can tell it is their Raison d’être
There is an orchestra being conducted behind the bar. It’s artful, designed, and extremely well executed. This is not cooking. It is art. To witness such perfection and expertise first hand will be a memory I will cherish. All of these men have dedicated their entire lives to this art. Takashi spent decades studying under his father before he was endowed with the responsibility of the Roppongi location.
In total we were there 45 minutes. This include about 15 minutes of tea time before the meal.
Reflecting back a year later
I still have the bill saved from that meal. It was 34,500 Yen, or roughly $287. Dave and I discussed this meal a lot before we went. Was it worth the price? But, when you think about it…we were staying for nothing at the Ritz. We were flying back to the states for a little over $100 in First Class, and how many times are you in Tokyo with the ability to watch a real master firsthand? Neither of us regret one bit. It’s memories like that that I will talk about in 20, 30, 40 years. ” Remember that one time we ate at the best sushi restaurant in the world…” Totally worth the price.
This review is part of the Around the world 2015 Mega Trip – High Teas, Safari, World’s Tallest, Jiro’s Sushi all in Business and First Class
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What awesome photos! maybe it is more of a tourist destination now but it means more people can experience that kind of cuisine. Definitely makes me want to just go out and explore more! …whether I make it out to this restaurant or not. Plus I feel like I’ve been there now anyway, lol
Don’t want to be mean at all – just a little constructive criticism – but you might want to proofread this again and re-post.
Hey so Sorry Gili – somehow my final draft was deleted and an early draft was published. Fixing it now.
It’s a totally difference experience than it was pre-documentary.
Expect to not have a single “local” there and to be eating with all tourists. The food is exceptional, don’t get me wrong, but the restaurant is more of a tourist trap now.
I have a Japanese relative who ate there multiple times years ago and he said that it changed with the fame. Refuses to go back.
Hey Lopere – thanks for reading. Sorry about the initial publication. Somehow the final draft was replaced by a rough one and I literally freaked out. I couldn’t speak to the tourist vs local vibe as everyone but Dave and I were speaking Japanese, but I have no idea if they were local to Tokyo. The article is updated now and I really enjoyed the experience. It’s very $$$ but unique and unlike anything I’ve done sushi-wise elsewhere in the world. Thanks for reading, always a pleasure to interact!
Saw you went to Roppongi – Ginza is where all the tourists go (to see Jiro)
I’m curious. Could you say what was it about it that made it “unique”? You mentioned the vinegar taste in the rice but all sushi has vinegar in the rice. I’m a long term resident of Japan and I’m wondering what it was about it that justifies the price tag other than being a restaurant with a connection to the restaurant with 3 Michelin stars from “That documentary”. Remember, Michelin stars are a French concept, many Japanese people I know, including quite a few with the finances to go to the most expensive sushi places if they so wished, know full well that “Jiro” is just a name and there are many, many, many sushi places which use the best rice and and the freshest catch which is what sushi is, so paying that kind of money for pieces of raw fish on rice with vinegar in a bar with little atmosphere is wholly unnecessary. Many Japanese also laugh when they learn that ramen restaurants are now getting Michelin stars.
Don’t get me wrong, sushi at its best, with the best (cold) sake can be a mind blowing experience but there are literally hundreds of sushi places in Tokyo where if a blind test was performed, nobody would recognize Jiro’s sushi ( remember, its raw fish on vinegar rice) as noticeably different. The freshness and the temperature and the quality of the rice is something that most places get right in Japan.
Hey John – Thank you for reading and it sounds like you are quite the sushi expert and also have a lot of knowledge and access to Tokyo’s finest. For me, a big part of the Unique experience was the impression that the documentary made. I’ve watched it a few times and I find the sacrifice and dedication exhibited to be very inspiring. I eat sushi several times a month in LA from hole in the walls to well known spots. I’ve eaten at multiple Nobus in various cities, the original Matsuhisa, Koi, Katsuya, etc,etc and I found SJ to be COMPLETELY different. The speed, the simplicity of the environment, only serving sushi…there was no scene, no razzle dazzle, and the essence that the doc captured was very true. The price is huge. There is no getting around it, but to me, it was worth it and I was happy to patron a place that has been built on dedication, commitment, and sacrifice. I’d love to check out other places on my next trip and if you have recommendations I’d LOOOOOOVE IT!. Thanks for the comment!